The parts in this kit still have some flash from the resin casting process which should be removed with a craft knife and fine emery paper.

The thin flash in the centre of the chassis casting and the six rectangular holes will need to be cleared along with the triangular areas at each end of the ballast hopper sides and in the centre of the hoop at the left hand end.
Two part epoxy resin (such as Araldite) and / or Superglue are recommended to complete the kit.  Fast set epoxy resin does have the advantage of allowing repositioning of parts
Begin by drilling out the bogie mounting holes in the chassis, counter-sink and fit 10 BA bolts supplied. This must be done at this point. The blot needs to be fully counter sunk to ensure there is sufficient thread coming beneath to secure the bogie with the nut.

I would recommend doing a dry run first with the sides and ends against the chassis. You may find depending on the thickness of the end pieces - which is a normal  consequence of the open back resin casting process - that the frames of the side pieces are a tiny bit too long.

You can either extend each end of the chassis frame with some thin off cuts of styrene or trim each end of the side pieces very slightly so they are flush at each end.

Glue the two end pieces in place with the bottom edge flush with the bottom of the chassis. Then fix the first side piece in position.  

Take care to ensure it is located in an absolutely central position.

Repeat with the second side section again taking care to ensure the two side are exactly parallel, then slide the sloping hopper end pieces into position and glue in place. 

Some filing and shaping may be required to get the top lip matching seamlessly at the corners where the sides and ends meet.

Now fit the ballast chutes underneath made up of 2 side pieces and 2 ends. The chute doors should line up with the vertical strips on the side of the hopper. They should slope inwards and the top inside edge should be flush with the inside of the hole in the chassis.

It can be made up as a sub-assembly which can made up on its own and them glued in place or you can built it up underneath the wagon.

Now fit the internal ballast dividers.  The 3 triangular dividing segments may need to be filed to fit on the outside edges to match the angle at which the chute sides were fitted in the previous step. 

Now fit the Z struts at each end of the hopper. The flush faces go to the outside.

If desired drill out marker holes and fit handrails with 0.5mm wire before gluing in place. The struts fit inside the moulded brackets on the hopper end and in line with the hoop at the end of the wagon.

You may have to chop a tiny bit off the end of the struts (at the right of the picture below) to make it fit.  (This will be affected by how accurately the sides were centred when they were glued to the chassis at the start of the build)

Make up the ballast chute control wheel assembly using 0.5mm wire, one of the large wheels from the brass fret supplied and the two remaining castings that come with the Z strut.

The wheel should be given a slight indent to make it concave shape to be completely prototypical before gluing or soldering it onto the wire.

Drill out the marked holes in the square angled block - which fits in the gap in the chassis just in front of the the bottom of the hopper slope - and the strap piece which holds the shaft in place between the Z struts.

Do not glue the wire into the resin parts until you have got it into place and are satisfied with the positioning.

Glue together the air tanks and brake cylinders which are cast in halves. The air tanks fit beneath the Z struts. (You may wish to rub the backs of them down against a piece of emery paper first to take off the extra depth added by the flash in the casting process to ensure they form a proper circle shape)
Drill a hole in the bottom of the brake cylinders, insert a short length of 0.7mm wire. Drill a hole in the chassis in the left hand corners midway between the Z strut and the cast hoop on the sides. Mount the cylinder here but do not fix the height until after folding up the hoods on the brass fret and gluing it in place above with the angled side glued to the bottom of the Z strut and the other side on top of the resin hoop at each end of the wagon. 

Now fit the small etched wheels onto 0.5mm wire and mount on in place where the hole is marked on the front left of each chassis.

All that remains now is to make up the 4 chute control shafts using a length of 0.7mm wire and the cogs and brackets from the brass fret. They can be fixed in place with solder or superglue.

Cut the wire to length to fit between the gearbox and the centre point of the wagon.
They should line up with the edges of the doors and be mounted in the order:

 Cog – Cog – Bracket – Cog – Bracket – Cog

A suggested way of tackling this is to start from the outer (square gearbox) ends.

Offer the wire up to the model placing one end against a gearbox. Grip with wire in the jaws of fine pliers where the first cog is to be placed. Still gripping it with the pliers thread on the cog and tack in place with a drop of superglue which can be applied using the point of a wooden cocktail stick. 

Move the pliers along the wire repeating the process with cogs and brackets taking care to ensure both the brackets are orientated with the flat upper surface in the same position - these are the primary contact points for gluing the shaft assembly on the wagon body.

When you have fitted the final cog in the just off-centre position then you can trim / file the wire to the correct length - there should be a very slight gap between the two halves.

Bogie Assembly
The bogies consist of fold-up brass etches and cast covers.

To complete them  we recommend the following Parkside Dundas products:
 6.2mm dia wheels (PN55) and 2mm brass shouldered bearings (PW22)

Fold up the bogie sides and glue or solder the bearings in place. PLEASE NOTE these bogies have been designed for the bearing to be mounted FLUSH.

Clear the holes in the cast bogie sides using a 2mm broach (recommended) so they can slip over the bearings and be glued in place. 

Small triangular areas of flash will also need to be cleared from the bogie side castings.

1 comment:

  1. Could I use peco GR-106 as a replacement for the ecthed bogies?